The Start of Markovic Adventures: Honeymoon to Portugal, Part Lisbon 2

Lisbon

When planning our trip, we were advised by several reliable sources to do a Jewish tour of Lisbon with Paulo Scheffer. Josh and I were skeptical because we weren't interested in spending alot of money to tour a city we can see on our own. Well, the tour was INCREDIBLE. It was worth every penny and is truly a must-do for anyone remotely interested in Jewish history planning to visit Lisbon.

The tour was 3.5 hours and gave us a great understanding of Lisbon history, which is both fascinating and somewhat tragic - its golden age was the age of discovery in the 15th century and today many buildings in central Lisbon are abandoned and written off as victims of the next earthquake, expected approximately every 250 years... which happens to be any day now. One of the coolest things we learned is that the main shopping area in central Lisbon still uses the original sewer system from Roman times. It survived the earthquakes and still works!! The Jewish history is probably more fascinating and definitely more tragic. The Inquisition lasted longer and was more cruel and fanatic than other inquisitions, including Spain's. Paolo was a tremendous story teller and had us clinging on to every word he spoke. After the tour, Josh and I agreed that if someone took a picture of us during the tour, we would probably be caught wide-eyed with gaping mouths. Paolo himself comes from Jewish and crypto-Jewish decent and has an interesting story of his own life to tell.

Lisbon

After the tour, we went to a a restaurant in the Chiado neighborhood called Fabulas, which served the best sparkling Sangria I've ever had. It was passion fruit flavored! The food was okay but the atmosphere and company were delightful.

Afterwards, we took a train to Sintra, a truly majestic town 45 minutes outside of Lisbon. We explored the grand Pena Palace and were FLOORED. It was truly the most spectacular building I have ever seen. Each room was more grand than the next. The details on the furniture and wall and ceiling decorations were marvelous. And when we stepped outside, the view was breathtaking. The palace sits on top of a mountain surrounded by luscious greenery and other beautiful structures in the distance. We were advised to take the transfer tram up the hill for 2 euro and did so because we were short on time. The climb looked do-able but certainly challenging.

Entering Pena Palace

Pena Palace

Quinto de Regalia

We then hustled over to the Quinto de Regalia, a very impressive structure from the outside but the inside doesn't hold a candle next to Pena Palace. However, we loved wandering through the gorgeous grounds. The paths were so green and serene and the waterfalls and beautiful structures kept it unique and interesting. We especially enjoyed walking through the underground caves. We felt like we were running through secret passages.

We returned to Lisbon exhausted and starving and enjoyed another all-you-can-eat buffet at a vegetarian restaurant called Terra. We arrived back at the hotel to an incredibly thoughtful and kind gift from the Jewish community - a care package of Kosher food for the rest of our travels! They sent us crackers, challah rolls, meat, candy, Pringles, chips and Tradition soups. After learning how difficult meat and some of the other Kosher items are to come by in Lisbon, we felt especially touched by their gesture.

What a wonderful way to end our visit to Lisbon. Better get to bed - we have a 4:15 AM wake up call coming our way to head to Madeira!

The Start of Markovic Adventures: Honeymoon to Portugal, Part Lisbon

I started this blog a year and a half ago at the start of my European adventures called "study abroad." It's hard to imagine that only 18 months later, I am on my next European adventure with my new husband and most alarmingly - AS A MARKOVIC!

But as they say (or I say)... You can take a girl out of the Schlussel but you can't take the Schlussel out of a girl. Josh and my Schlussel adventures continue under the guise "Markovic." And here begins our honeymoon.

We arrived in Lisbon early Friday morning. It turns out that the reason it was almost impossible to get a hotel here (thank goodness for Hotwire) is partly because of a Rotary conference with 20,000 attendees. Our hotel, the Parque Real Hotel is a bit far from the center of things but walkable and completely clean and decent. They upgraded us to the top floor with a gorgeous view of Lisbon when we told them we're on our honeymoon so we have no complaints.

Pastais de Belem

Friday morning we dropped our luggage at the hotel and hit the ground running (classic Schlussel style - see the Extreme Travel blog posts from Greece and Turkey). We started in Belem and since we hadn't eaten since dinner shortly after takeoff (it was actually very edible plane food), we decided to begin with a famous pastry shop - Pastéis de Belém. We tried their signature pastry and it did not disappoint. It met the hype and then some. While topped with cinnamon and powdered sugar, the taste explosion upon first bite came mostly from the oozy custard filling. A local on-line behind us advised us not to think we'd eat one but that you need at least 3 each. So we ordered a box of 6 and a coffee and luckily found a seat in the crowded cafe.

A boy who loves his maps

After fueling up, we visited the Jeronimos Monastery and admired the grand architecture from the outside. We then went to the Marine museum, which besides giving us ideas for Purim costumes (first married Purim!), we found it a waste of time. Outside the museum, a man tried to sell Josh much-needed sunglasses but after negotiating and then changing his mind, Josh was chased down the street by the determined salesman who had called Josh in a thick accent "a man of da business."

We then walked along the water to the Belem Tower and climbed up the fortress. There was an interesting traffic system in the old building where an electric arrow would tell you if you could climb up or down the narrow staircase.

At the Belem Tower

A Man of Da Business

Next, we took the tram to the old part of the city and wandered through the narrow cobblestone streets, climbing up and up until we reached Sao Jorge Castle. There, we enjoyed stunning birds-eye views of the city and chatted with helicopter pilots who are lieutenants in the US Navy and finishing up a one-year deployment. On our way down, we stopped at the Se Cathedral and enjoyed its beautiful architecture.

We got back to the hotel with time for a quick power-nap before getting ready for Shabbat. We attended the Shaare Tikva Synagogue. [Note: if you go, email a copy of your passport to security in advance.] There, Josh was greeted by an American visitor from Englewood, NJ who told Josh he went to Frisch for high school. Upon learning this, Josh exclaimed: "My wife went to Frisch!" Such a married comment!! Anyway shout out to the Moed family visiting Lisbon to see an exhibition Eric spent the last few months working on - a pop up exhibition in the home of Aristides de Sousa Mendes, a Portuguese consul in France, who against orders issued over 1500 visas to refugees fleeing the Holocaust.

We ate meals at the home of a middle-aged ultra Orthodox couple whom we were put in touch with by good 'ole Chabad. They were an interesting couple who both were born and raised in Germany, converted to Judaism as adults, married, and moved to Lisbon for the wife's job at the EU as an IT person in drug regulation. They told us about the challenges of living in such a small community. Also at the meal was the husband's non-Jewish father, and an Israeli man studying in Lisbon.

Mojitos at Clube de Fado

Shabbat afternoon we explored the city, observing a number of street artists, and some free but mediocre museums. After Shabbat, we went to town for dinner at an all-you-can-eat-buffet Vegan restaurant at Jardim das Cerejas and then experienced traditional Fado music and very strong mojitos at Clube de Fado in Alfama, the oldest section of Lisbon.

While it lacks the deep history of Rome and bustle of Berlin, my major take-aways from Lisbon so far are that
1. The people are extremely nice
2. Cobblestone hurts your feet
3. Cabs are very cheap
4. The hilly city with red rooftops, surrounded by water makes for stunning views around just about every corner

Extreme Travel Part VI: Santorini

Of course, we watched Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants on the flight from Athens as a pump up for our Santorini visit.  We arrived in Santorini late in the afternoon and checked into our lovely hotel.  The owner was very confused by us.  She didn’t get that we like hiking and physical activities or the vegetarian thing and she made her skepticism clear as day. 

We went out to a beach side restaurant for dinner and asked the waiter to heat up Katie’s Kosher meal because she “has severe allergies” and needs to bring her own food. They were extremely nice and accommodating and agreed to the strange request.  The waiter felt really bad for her and kept trying to help her find things on the menu that she could eat.  Then, he brought us complementary drinks with dessert and commented that should isn’t allergic to alcohol.  Unfortunately the drink had grenadine in it and Katie explained that its one of her “allergies.”   I took one for the team.

The next day, we woke early and went to Fira, the main city in Santorini, for a boat tour to a volcano.  We got lost on our way and were escorted across the city by a Greek man who showed us a short cut and then told us where he would be if we needed his help later.  We were given the directions to the cable car that would take us down to the port but as Schlussel women, we decided to hike down instead.  We climbed the still-active volcano and felt the heat from in the rocks. 

After descending, the boat took us to natural hot springs and we swam around and rubbed mineral mud all over our bodies.  They say its good for you and we’d like to believe them. 

The boat returned us to the Fira port and we rode donkeys back up to the city.  Our donkeys must have sensed our sibling relationship because they had some sort of rivalry and fought to get ahead of each other.  Scary, but fun! 

Next on the itinerary was visiting the black and red beaches that Santorini is famous for.  Unfortunately, the public transportation on these Greek islands isn’t great and we were talked into renting a car for the day. Let’s just say it was scarier than riding fighting donkeys! We drove up, down, and around cliffs and at times, we were sure that our little red car that started rolling backwards wouldn’t make it up.  But despite our pessimism, our little red car could.   The good news? The beaches were beautiful and we made it back in one piece (or 2 if you count us as separate people despite the fact that we have started speaking in unison). 

We made it back in time for Shabbas with minutes to spare to Skype some important people.  The Kosher food we schlepped from Chabad Athens made the journey successfully and we enjoyed a very pleasant Shabbat dinner in our hotel room kitchenette.  Unfortunately, we forgot to turn the refrigerator on before putting the rest of it away and Shabbat lunch was less successful. 

On Shabbat, we relaxed by the pool and on the black beach down the block. As Ronnie and Marc’s daughters we were compelled to take a hike when the sun went down so we climbed a steep mountain for panoramic views of Santorini.  Katie is somewhat like a mountain goat in several ways and one of which required me to scramble of the mountain at top speed to keep up.

Our time in Santorini came to an end so we squeezed in our last hours on the black rocky beach before our ferry to Mykonos.  Once on the ferry, we found a place that we considered more appropriate for us in first class and were slick enough not to get caught.  We disturbed those foolish enough to pay for the special seats by watching My Big Fat Greek Wedding and losing ourselves to uncontrollable laughter despite having seen the movie many times.  I guess we aren’t as slick as we think.  And fun fact: Tula’s family in the movie is from Mykonos! A perfect introduction to our next stop.

Extreme Travel Part V: Athens

Woke up from a mysterious phone call at 7:45am.  Somehow, we overslept my alarm set for 7 and had 15 minutes to get our stuff (and we have alot of it) downstairs and check out and grab what we can from our all-inclusive breakfast.  We were grateful that the unreliable shuttle company showed up late, giving us extra time to "snarf" down some food.  

At the airport check-in, we started pulling weight out of our suitcases again, and successfully checked-in free of weight charges. The smaller airport was easier to navigate with our extra carry-on baggage and we were able to have a more civilized breakfast, sitting a cafe tables.  We ordered our last Turkish coffees before leaving for Athens.  The man behind the counter gave us the password for the wifi (unsolicited, I might add) so we can look up his suggestions for our next trip to Turkey. We used it for other purposes.  

We arrived in Athens and head straight for Hotel Ava, located in a prime location between the Temple of Zeus and the Acropolis.  Besides its ideal location, our hotel staff was extremely friendly and helpful and the room was beautiful.  It even had a terrace that smelled delightfully of flowers. 

Hotel Ava

We dove into our itinerary and met ancient Athens.  We climbed up to the Acropolis and did a Rick Steves audio tour of the Parthenon, Erectheion, and enjoyed the breathtaking views from the Acropolis (meaning: high city).  

Parthenon 

We then headed for the Acropolis museum and started with the cafe.  Finally, a great meal! I had a delicious Greek dish that included honey, feta cheese, and puff pastry dough. Greece knows how to make me a happy girl.  We explored the sculptures and ruins from the Acropolis kept inside for preservation.  The antiquity of the objects on display really impressed us. 

After the museum, we listened to the Rick Steves Athens walking tour and saw the Roman Agora, Library of Hadrian, Arch of Hadrian, Temple of Zeus, and Monastiraki square.  

We went to the brand new Chabad restaurant, Gostijo, for dinner and enjoyed some Sephardi delicacies (go with it) that included a rice dish with lentils and caramelized onions and leek fritters.  We chatted with the people in Hebrew and English but left a little confused about the relationships.  As Katie wisely said: "Chabad is a wonder."  Before we left, they gave us these slices of a chocolate cake that strongly resembled my fathers' family's matzah cake.  Interpret that as you wish. 

Parliament guard 

Today, we started with a delicious breakfast of fresh Greek yogurt with honey, nuts and fresh fruit. We finished the Rick Steves Athens walking tour. We started with Syntagma Square, which is where Greeks have rioted for change since the times of Ottoman empire.  We watched the changing of the guards at the Parliament building, a building that used to be a royal palace.  We took pictures with the goofy-looking guards but were yelled at and banished when Katie couldn't prevent herself from stroking his tassel.  We then admired medieval churches.  During our walk, a sleazy man walking toward us stuck his head in our faces and said "woaaa" in an abnormally deep voice and Greek accent.  The best part: Katie didn't notice!  Dear Rick then gave us a tour of the Ancient Agora, the center of the Greek world at the height of the empire! 

Parliament guard 

We stopped for lunch at a lovely vegetarian cafe called Avocado and enjoyed a terrific meal! Finally, we ended our Athens experience with a tour of the Olympic Stadium.  I finally convinced a ticket counter to give Katie a student price even though she "forgot her ID."  Of course, I left the counter with our tickets to find Katie crouched behind the bushes, trying to look subtle and inconspicuous.  The stadium was especially awesome because it is the place of the original Olympics where gladiators fought.  It was then renovated and used in 1896 for the first modern day Olympics and again in the 2004 Athens Olympics.  

Olympic Stadium 

Completing our itinerary successfully, we raced back to the hotel to collect our luggage and go to the airport.  After racing like lunatics and finding time to change our last 2 Turkish Lira to 80 Euro cents, we got through security and realized the flight's scheduled departure is an hour later than we realized.  

 

Accidental relaxation time accepted. 

Extreme Travel Part IV: Pamukkale

Today we participated in a group tour of Pamukkale.  Katie was worried this morning that our day would be normal and that I would have nothing to blog about this evening but no such thing. 

enjoying breakfast at our hotel before the tour 

The bus picked us up at 8am sharp.  Apparently, we were the first ones the bus picked up so it preceded to spend the next hour picking up guests from other hotels before beginning the 3 hour journey to Pamukkale.  After about 2 hours, we stopped for bathrooms etc. Strangely, the bus was soaped and hosed up and down.  Then, about 20 minutes after re-boarding the bus, we stopped for lunch at an all-you-can-eat restaurant that was apparently included in our tour but they left off the "inclusion list."  

The restaurant had quite a few options but all the food was totally gross. I ordered Turkish coffee with lunch and one of the waiters offered to read my fortune but he was a poser and not nearly as legit as the driver from yesterday.  

At lunch came our second cue that something is strange about our tour.  2 of the other participants tried to ask us something... in Spanish.  They were on an English speaking tour and didn't speak English.  Apparently, neither did the Asian couple on the tour or the other Peruvians.  Out of 15 people on our tour, almost half didn't speak English, including the tour guide (kind of).  

Dr. Fish experience

We arrived in Pamukkale and were given 2 hours to enjoy.  We headed for the natural hot springs but took a detour and decided to first get Dr. Fish "pedicures."  It was the strangest feeling ever.  We stuck our feet in a pool of water with fish that ate at our feet, supposedly removing dead skin and leaving healing properties for the fresh skin to come in better.  It tickled and felt so creepy and weird!  

supply closet... shhh

Afterwards, we decided to hit the springs.  We needed to change into our swimwear (Katie upholds a strict "don't ask, don't tell" policy regarding what she wore) but the changing room lines were too long. We found an unattended supply close and snuck in there to maximize our time.  We swam in hot springs that contained remnants of ancient columns of Cleopatra.  Afterwards, we climbed on the limestone mineral deposits and through other hot springs overlooking a gorgeous mountainous view.  

standing on mineral deposits 

We were out of time and headed back to Kusadasi.  The tour guide said we would be stopping at a marble place, which we knew meant a tourist trap where they try to sell you things and the guide who brings you gets the commission.  We staged a revolt and I asked that we not go since it is likely that no one on our tour is interested.  We won.  The bus decided to make the same pit stop on the way back and again the bus was scrubbed down.  Perplexing... We had asked to be dropped off first since we were picked up first  and spent forever doing pickups and the tour guide agreed but somehow we ended up last and spent a over 10 hours on the bus and 2 hours in Pamukkale.  

Overall, we loved Pamukkale but were very dissatisfied with the tour company that basically provided a crappy shuttle service and no tour.  

Tomorrow we are flying to Athens so we decided to find a cheaper way of traveling to the airport than a taxi without shlepping all our overweight luggage on the public bus.  I found a shuttle service online and booked it.  Since it is a last minute reservation, I decided to call and confirm that they will be picking us up in the morning.  When I called, the man I spoke with asked if we took their tour today.  Apparently, it's the same disastrous company that took us to Pamukkale today! On the bright side, I was able to tear the tour apart to the guy on the phone, which saved me a nasty email.  Unfortunately for you, I don't have an entertaining email to share.  We are hoping for better luck with them tomorrow.

Extreme Travel Part III: Izmir, Ephesus, and Kusadasi

Another full day on the extreme travel adventure! We woke up at 4:45am to fly from Istanbul to Izmir.  We got to the airport knowing we would have a weight problem since domestic flights have a 15kg (33lb) limit and I have all my belongings from my Rome apartment with me.  We packed our carry-ons with our heaviest non-liquid items and hoped for the best.  Needless to say, we were still way over the limit.  Instead of paying 3 lira/kg for the 15 kg we were over (note: this is about $1.25/kg), we start tearing our bags apart, rolling items into tight balls and stuffing them into our carry-on bags.  Eventually, the guys took pity on us (this was made clear by their sad smiles combined with asking us if we are students) and allowed us to check the bags that were still a combined 23 lbs overweight.  We decided that we probably shouldn't return to the States since we feel way more popular in Turkey.

We were 2 hot messes marching through the extremely warm airport wearing my jackets, carrying over-stuffed and extremely heavy backpacks, rolling bags and totes, as well as 2 boxed breakfasts (from our extremely sweet hotel in Istanbul) and Katie's box of Kosher dinner that was leaking everywhere. We then decided that the gate would be a good place to eat our breakfasts of hardboiled eggs, oatmeal and juice.  We take turns peeling undercooked eggs over the garbage, and alternating asking the cafe for hot water, cups, and utensils for our oatmeal.  We also used the juice to take calcium pills to lighten our load and committed to taking 4 calcium pills each every day until the end of the trip since we don't believe in throwing anything away. 

Izmir historical elevation lookout 

We finally arrived in Izmir and met our tour guide and driver who would be taking us to Ephesus. On the way, we stopped in Izmir for a caffeine fix and to see the Beit Israel Synagogue.  They took us up to a beautiful terrace overlooking Izmir where we enjoyed coffees.  I got a Turkish Coffee and the driver (whose wife is a fortune teller) read my fortune from the cup while the tour guide translated for us.  He said that there is a guy who is jealous of me and he is one of two enemies of mine.  We are still trying to figure out who it could be.  

Bet Israel Synagogue, Izmir

We then went to the Shul.  Izmir used to be a majority Jewish city.  The shul was stunning and we spoke to the man who showed us around. First, he

 spoke Turkish to the tour guide and he translated for us but we eventually discovered Hebrew as our common language and were able to communicate directly with each other.  Unfortunately, my Hebrew is a tad rusty.  I meant to ask if we can visit the house of Shabtai Tzvi and accidentally asked if we could burry Shabtai Tzvi.  His strong reaction made sense to me when I realized in the car later, that I used the word "likboa" (to burry) instead of "livaker" (to visit).  Whoops. The shul had really old Jewish artifacts collected over the years on display including a 100-year old wedding dress and suit, a wedding book that recorded marriages in the community from the 1200's, some megila scroll covers, bar mitzvah candy baskets, etc.  

Bet Israel Synagogue, Izmir 

Afterwards, we drove to Ephesus for a tour of the ancient city and saw amazing remnants of sculptures, monuments and infrastructure, and were especially impressed by the advanced plumbing and heating systems they employed.  

Ephesus entrance to amphitheater 

Ephesus ancient columns 

relaxing on the beach 

After Ephesus, we checked into our all-inclusive hotel in Kusadasi (so fun) and relaxed at the beach until dinner.  We seem to pass out for a power nap at every opportunity.  I wonder why... 

Extreme Travel Part II: Istanbul Continued

Today we woke up very early to be at the Topkaki Palace before it opened.  We experienced the public transportation here - not so efficient or intuitive. The palace was stunning. There was a whole section on jeweled items that belonged to Sultans including thrones, swords, water carriers, etc. Katie obviously had a blast looking at an 86 carat diamond. We also explored the Harem, the area where the concubines and wives of the Sultan lived.

After we covered the palace (making excellent time, of course), we had lunch at a recommended restaurant.  Okay, I know we don't eat fish so maybe this isn't fair to say but Turkish food < par.

Afterwards, we went to the Hagia Sofia.  It's a Byzantine Church from the 6th century that was later converted into a Mosque and then to a museum. It is made of all recycled materials from other monuments  and some of the oldest marble pillars date back to 2400 years ago, around the time of the second beit hamikdash! We got on the longest line of the century to buy tickets and then a guy came by offering to give English tours that would also allow us to skip to the front of the ticket line. #win!

Hagia Sofia

Hagia Sofia 

The tour guide was awesome and gave us a better understanding of this awesome structure - in the truest sense of the word - than we ever would have gotten without him.  10,000 workers completed the Hagia Sofia in 5 years which was an incredible accomplishment since it is the (one of?) highest free standing domes ever! Interestingly, as a church, it faced Jerusalem and when it was converted to a mosque, they changed the point of focus slightly South to face Mecca instead. It was a truly unbelievable building!

Afterwards, we went to the underground cistern, which was built in the 4th century.  It was incredibly cool! There are 2 mysterious medusa heads inside and the cistern still has water in it. And huge fish!

Cistern

Next on the schedule was the spice bazaar.  We asked a man for directions and he was going nearby so he took us there himself! We chatted a bit but his accent was difficult to understand. The spice market was a whole new experience.  The man we bought tea and perfume from fell in love with Katie. He gave us make overs and eye liner, love tea, and tons of Turkish Delight tastes.  He made tons of comments with sexual innuendoes and had Katie giggling and red.  He decided that Katie's butt is nicer than JLo's.

Katie and her Spice Bazaar boyfriend

After our adventures in the spice bazaar, we took a boat tour on the Bosphorus river.  I was exhausted and fell asleep during the relaxing ride in on the sunny river.  When we finally arrived at the hotel around 6pm, we discovered that the Turkish bath place was still open and we raced over for a Turkish experience.

Well it was certainly an experience! We arrived at this place and they sent us to a women's area.  There were old ladies in funny patterned hospital-looking gowns who didn't speak English but led me into a room and said: "everything off. Shoes. Towel. Keys." Hoping that we had deciphered the meaning of her message, we undressed (in transparent glass rooms), wrapped towels around us, stepped into awkward wooden shoes and locked our belongings in the rooms. We were led into a steamy room with a large marble slab in the center.  There was a woman lying naked on one edge of the marble slab and a naked old lady (in her underwear) scrubbing her with soap.  One lady motioned for us to leave our towels by the entrance. Of course, we burst into giggles. Nay, hysterics, completely changing the mood of the room.  We lay down, completely naked, on 2 other edges of the marble slab and cannot stop laughing.  Everyone was walking around naked (or in their underwear but we didn't get the memo that you could keep it on) or lying naked on the marble slab.

When our turn for the soap massage came, the old naked women with saggy boobs scrubbed us with an exfoliating glove and then had us go to a sink and pour water over ourselves. Then, we were returned to the marble and soaped down.  It was the strangest sensation having a light, fluffy, wet, substance poured on my body.  It was like a wet cloud landed on my back.  The soaping was actually quite relaxing, although also totally strange. Afterwards, the lady took me to a sink and I sat between her legs while she shampooed my hair, and then braided it. Katie and I agreed that the experience kind of felt like our old, Mediterranean grandmother (who doesn't exist) was bathing us.  It was a cool and totally weird experience!  Of course, after our Turkish bath, we had to return for a real shower because the bath was far from clean.