Rome-ing Minutes: Surviving NZ Roads and Quakes: A South Island Road Trip (Franz Josef, Punakaiki, Nelson, Abel Tasman, Hanmer Springs)

We woke up early to hike to see the Franz Josef glacier before the storm hit hard. We had arranged a time with our American friends (Ally, Ann and Lauren) to go together and had the opportunity to show off our left-side driving skills to our new passengers. Needless to say, we were ready to leave 20 minutes before the time we had given them so we sent them urgent Facebook messages to get to breakfast quickly!

Franz Josef glacier walk

Scary NZ driving

We walked in a crater along a river until the glacier came into view. Unfortunately, because the glacier has shrunk so much in recent years, you can’t get very close to the glacier without taking a helicopter to hike on it. We admired it from afar and noticed how small we felt near the glacier and large rocks, waterfalls and mountains surrounding us.

Before long, we dropped off our friends, picked up our luggage and hit the road, driving North along the west coast to Nelson. Then the rain started again. Adam was driving and started to panic that the headlights didn’t seem to turn on with the windshield wipers. Frantically looking around for headlights, the car swerving (Adam says allegedly swerving) all over the road, he glanced in his rearview mirror and noticed a police car behind us. Obviously, the cops pulled us over. The very kind Kiwi police officer explained that he had to pull us over because he thought Adam was drunk. Fortunately, he came to a different conclusion about Adam’s suspicious appearance than airport security does because he let us go without a breathalyzer test.

Driving through the rain, we arrived at Punakaiki, where we would be spending the night. We stopped to view the Pancake rocks (named, we think, for the mysterious layered appearance) and the blowholes. They were really cool and we enjoyed our walk even in the pouring rain. Afterwards, we continued on to check in to our hostel (Te Nikau). When booking a hostel, I found a single hostel available in this tiny town but it was well rated. I had scanned the reviews and the first one described the hostel as “hilarious.” Not really sure what to make of that and without other choices, we booked it anyway and were looking forward to getting in on the joke.

Punakaiki pancake rocks

We dashed inside through the rain to check in and learned that there was no Wi-Fi in the building we were staying in and no free WiFi available anywhere. There was also no cell service. I asked if an upgrade was available and the guy said that he couldn’t upgrade us but that we can push our mattresses together… No thanks.

We arrived in our assigned little house and there was a kitchen, dining room, fireplace and 2 bathrooms on the ground floor. Up the stairs, there were 2 adorable and romantic bedrooms with a single large bed in the middle of the room – the upgrade I requested (oops). Further up the stairs, were a living room and sink and a loft with 6 mattresses on the floor. Hilarious indeed. We did a very wet but beautiful hike along a river in the rainforest before returning to eat an early dinner. Adam got bored so he fell asleep at 6:30pm. I hung out and read the Prime Ministers and fell asleep at the slightly more respectable time of 8:45.

In the morning, we woke up early (and well rested) to start our day. We stopped on the side of the road with a beautiful view of the stormy sea crashing against the rocks along the coast for peanut butter sandwiches for a plan B breakfast after realizing we had no spoons or bowls. We continued onward and found an cute café called Berlin, with large windows overlooking the “highway” which is a road winding around trees and mountains. We reconnected on WiFi and sipped delicious coffee (finally).

Buller Swing Bridge walk

Getting back in the car, we battled the rain until we came upon the Buller Gorge Swing Bridge, where we stopped to do a walk across the bridge and through the 1929 earthquake fault line (which apparently upthrusted the earth 4.5 meters).

We journeyed on North and arrived in Nelson and checked into the much-awaited Paradiso hostel, which was fairly good but overrated. We changed into running clothes and ran/hiked up the Center of New Zealand for gorgeous views of Nelson. At the top, we studied the map of Nelson to plan our next few hours and discovered a “Synagogue Lane.” We excitedly researched the Jewish community of Nelson (which we learned is the 3^rd largest in New Zealand but is only a few people, with no Synagogue and has no Shabbat happenings. Oh well.

Scenic drive entering Nelson

We ate well that night – first, free soup at the hostel and then at a vegetarian café (East Street) before returning to relax in the hostel hot tub. In the morning, we awoke to more pouring rain and drove to Abel Tasman, hoping that the weather would clear up soon. We caught a water taxi to Bark Bay and enjoyed the fast boat ride on the stormy ocean seas, stopping to view a granite rock that split in half and some lazy seals lounging in the sun. The boat dropped us in Bark Bay and we started our 15-mile hike back to Marahau. We walked quickly to get back before dark. The setting was stunning – walking on yellow beaches and climbing up cliffs to overlook the emerald colored sea.

We made it back with enough daylight remaining to drive up the winding roads to Matueka to spend the night. We finally fulfilled our goal of turning up somewhere with no plans or reservations! We showed up at the Laughing Kiwi Backpackers (YHA) and booked 2 beds for the night. The hostel didn’t allow shoes inside so it was delightfully clean. We pushed our tired legs a little further to find dinner and found a tiny vegetarian restaurant with a NZD $5 special for a plate of Indian food. Afterwards, I needed ice cream, which was completely understandable after our hike. However, I am ashamed to admit that for lack of options and energy to look further, I got a McFlurry.

Mapua

In the morning, we drove through Mapua to see the cute shops and harbor. It was the first nice residential town that we’ve seen in New Zealand. After walking around, we drove on toward Hanmer Springs. Along the way, we stopped at the Maruia falls for a short walk and then did a walk along small part of the St. James walkway. We arrived in Hanmer Springs, stopped for lunch at the Hanmer bakery that had been highly recommended, bought groceries, and pre-purchased our tickets for shabbat. Then we walked around to check out the animal farm (petting zoo) but left without getting tickets because it looked like a private farm where you could pay to feed someone's animals.

Abel Tasman

We returned to our hostel (Hanmer Backpackers) and drank beer and played Rummykub with our fellow guests. Hanmer is a popular destination for locals - we met as many Kiwis there than we had the rest of the trip combined. We started chatting with everyone. Soon, an older guy proposed to me when I told him I’m studying to be a doctor. He didn’t do anything grand like get down on his knee so I didn’t realize until later that he was trying to marry me and so instead of responding to his question, I proceeded to tell him about Josh. Oh well, I could have started a collection. The same guy had witnessed Adam helping an old man find the pharmacy earlier in the day and reported to me what a special boy my brother is. While we were playing, one of the long-term residents at the hostel returned from work at the bakery and brought scones and muffins for us to enjoy. Eventually, I collapsed into bed for a desperately needed full night’s sleep.

When we woke up, it was freezing outside (literally I had left my wet shoes in the car and they had frozen). Before I continue, I should add that we later discovered that while we were sleeping, we survived an earthquake. Phew. So, we bundled up and set out to hike up Conical hill for nice views of Hanmer and the surrounding mountains and farmland. Afterwards, we went to the famous Hanmer hot springs and relaxed in the hot pools for several hours. And best of all, I finally finished the Prime Ministers! Yay Begin.

Once fully overheated and prune-y, we returned to our hostel for a late lunch. Adam took a nap but I was still fully rested so I raced to the bakery to see if I could get some free food before they closed. Adam warned me that he asked the day before but was rejected because they give the leftovers to the horses. However, I worked my magic and was successful in obtaining a veggie sandwich, which I saved for dinner. J

Later in the evening, we walked around with some travelers from Japan. We taught them English and they gave me tips for my upcoming trip. Our companion carried around a pocket-sized hi-tech dictionary to reference as well as a notebook where she recorded new words thats she learned or didn't know. That's dedication to learning a language!